September really isn't the best time to plant rhodies, hostile environment or not. However, one can find some decent deals on plants this time of the year, so why not give it a shot? I planted seven new rhododendrons yesterday afternoon and this morning and I did some things differently than in the past. First I'll explain why we are a hostile environment. Our soil is neutral ph, heavy black loam that can get hard when we go through our frequent droughty periods. That said, there are things that can be done to deal with this situation.
I have had success with a number of rhodies over the years, but recently I came to the realization that the majority of my successes are plants that were installed as balled and burlap. Growing containerized stock has to date often been a failure and I hesitate to think how many rhododendron plants grown in containers that I've lost. (It's painful to recall those expensive losses in the last year alone). My friend Frog Pond has been monumentally successful with rhododendrons, partially because of the wonderful sandy loam he is blessed with, and partially because he knows what he's doing when it comes to preparing potted plants for installation. Thanks to him I've come to realize that I have been much too kind to the root balls of my new plants.
A. Do the butterfly thing... not unlike preparing perch for a fish fry... cut perpendicular lines with a sharp knife deep into the root ball.
B. Tease the tight root mass about an inch into the root ball to loosen the roots so they can grow out from the ball. I can't number the times I've pulled a dead rhododendron from the ground only to discover the root ball hasn't changed a bit from the day I planted it. It upsets me when chunks of fibrous roots fall off the plant during the process, but I've come to realize I need to experiment with being vicious!
As far as preparing the planting site...
1. I try to locate the plants where they will be protected from desiccating winds during winter and early spring especially.
2. They should also be protected from winter sun as much as possible in this climate.
3. I've increased my amendment of the soil with peat moss to 50 % and extend this area out a goodly distance from the root ball.
4. I plant the root ball high... perhaps a couple inches above the surrounding soil... the plants appreciate excellent drainage.
5. I apply about two inches of mulch but not against the trunk of the plants.
6. I provide a good dose of liquid rooting hormones in the form of a product called Strong Start mixed in water.
7. If the plants look at all chlorotic I also provide some liquid iron.
8. Finally, I provide the plants with a good dose of HollyTone by Espoma.
I look forward to seeing how these new plants do through the winter... I will cover them with burlap for a couple seasons as well.
Elsewhere in the garden:
I lost my tree form of Amethyst Falls wisteria for goodness knows what reason... it is coming back but I'm sure the growth is from below the graft so I'll remove it and today I replaced it with a new plant in a different location, grown as a standard.
I have made calls to professionals... I simply can't abide the naked crabapples from July on any longer... it festers like a wound every time I look in their direction and the leaves lie about on the ground. I am targeting three plants to start with, but two in particular are very large for crabapples, to 30 feet or more. They are surrounded by important plants which I don't want to lose... these other plants might be safer if someone other than myself was wielding the chainsaw! I will so miss them but one week of enchantment is no longer worth 51 weeks of concern followed by disgust.
My beautiful Ozakazuki japanese maple has done very well for a few years, growing to about twelve feet, but now it has leaves that are appearing fried... I wish that were the case... simple sunburn as it were... but I have seen this with other maples and I fear for its very life. These are the challenges of gardening and it's not likely to change anytime soon. Last winter my wife and I came across a folder of plant purchase receipts from my first few years of serious gardening. The thing was an inch and a half thick and after studying the contents, I realized that 90% of those purchases either died or were removed by me. It's a tough learning curve with some occasional painful moments, but well worth it I think! Each time we talk about a european vacation, I come to the same conclusion... I simple prefer months of great plants to a couple weeks on the continent... needless to say, we can't afford both!
That my perspective for today... take care,
Larry
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